Nutrients for Plants
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#11: Starting a Worm Bin
Why would you invite 1,000 wriggling redworms into your home? Because they not only
can consume close to their own weight in kitchen waste every day but also will provide
you with free plant food and compost.
Here's what you need to know to get started with worm wrangling:
First, note that nightcrawlers -- the most common kind of worm in your garden --
aren't suitable for home composting because they don't do well in shallow containers.
Redworms, though, which are available by mail order, will thrive under the right
conditions, and you can get a pound of them quite inexpensively. Click on the picture
below to order.
can consume close to their own weight in kitchen waste every day but also will provide
you with free plant food and compost.
Here's what you need to know to get started with worm wrangling:
First, note that nightcrawlers -- the most common kind of worm in your garden --
aren't suitable for home composting because they don't do well in shallow containers.
Redworms, though, which are available by mail order, will thrive under the right
conditions, and you can get a pound of them quite inexpensively. Click on the picture
below to order.
To begin, you need to construct (or
buy) a suitable bin. Either a plastic or
wood container will work. It should be
between 8” and 12” deep, and you
should allow at least one square foot of
surface area for every pound of worms.
Because worms need oxygen, you'll
need to drill some ¼” to ½” holes in the
bottom of the container. These will also
let excess liquid (which makes an
excellent house plant food) drain out,
so you'll want to elevate the container
on some blocks and place a tray or pan
underneath to catch the runoff. Finally,
add some tight mesh screen to the
bottom of the container so that your
worms don't take it upon themselves to
evacuate. A cover on top will help
conserve moisture (and worms).
buy) a suitable bin. Either a plastic or
wood container will work. It should be
between 8” and 12” deep, and you
should allow at least one square foot of
surface area for every pound of worms.
Because worms need oxygen, you'll
need to drill some ¼” to ½” holes in the
bottom of the container. These will also
let excess liquid (which makes an
excellent house plant food) drain out,
so you'll want to elevate the container
on some blocks and place a tray or pan
underneath to catch the runoff. Finally,
add some tight mesh screen to the
bottom of the container so that your
worms don't take it upon themselves to
evacuate. A cover on top will help
conserve moisture (and worms).
Tear some (non-color) newspaper pages or pieces of corrugated cardboard into strips
and place them in the bin as a bedding for the worms. Worms like things damp, so
moisten the bedding to the point where it's wet but not soggy -- about like a damp
sponge. The container should be about ¾ full of bedding.
Now it's time to introduce the worms to their new abode. It's a good idea to give them a
day or so to get used to their new environment before you put them to work. Redworms
will tolerate temperatures between 55º and 77º F. If the bedding gets higher than 84º,
the worms may die.
Feed the worms with your kitchen waste by laying it on top of the bedding and then
cover it with some more wet paper. Suitable worm food includes fruit and vegetable
peels, ground-up egg shells, tea bags, and coffee grounds (but use these last two
sparingly -- they can make the bin too acidic). Never compost meats or dairy products,
and avoid very oily or salty foods.
Eventually, as the worms break down and digest your offerings, they will fill the bin with
castings (worm poop), which you'll need to remove. The easiest way is to expose the
top of the container to light -- the worms will head south and you can scoop up the
castings and use them in your garden as a soil conditioner.
The most common problem with worm bins is unwanted odors. This might be the result
of insufficient oxygen (check those air holes) or more food than the little guys can
handle (hold off on feeding for a while).
If worms are constantly trying to crawl out of the bin, it's not because of a population
explosion -- worms will naturally stop breeding before things get too crowded. More
likely, the pH of the bin is too acidic. Cut back on the citrus peels and coffee grounds.
and place them in the bin as a bedding for the worms. Worms like things damp, so
moisten the bedding to the point where it's wet but not soggy -- about like a damp
sponge. The container should be about ¾ full of bedding.
Now it's time to introduce the worms to their new abode. It's a good idea to give them a
day or so to get used to their new environment before you put them to work. Redworms
will tolerate temperatures between 55º and 77º F. If the bedding gets higher than 84º,
the worms may die.
Feed the worms with your kitchen waste by laying it on top of the bedding and then
cover it with some more wet paper. Suitable worm food includes fruit and vegetable
peels, ground-up egg shells, tea bags, and coffee grounds (but use these last two
sparingly -- they can make the bin too acidic). Never compost meats or dairy products,
and avoid very oily or salty foods.
Eventually, as the worms break down and digest your offerings, they will fill the bin with
castings (worm poop), which you'll need to remove. The easiest way is to expose the
top of the container to light -- the worms will head south and you can scoop up the
castings and use them in your garden as a soil conditioner.
The most common problem with worm bins is unwanted odors. This might be the result
of insufficient oxygen (check those air holes) or more food than the little guys can
handle (hold off on feeding for a while).
If worms are constantly trying to crawl out of the bin, it's not because of a population
explosion -- worms will naturally stop breeding before things get too crowded. More
likely, the pH of the bin is too acidic. Cut back on the citrus peels and coffee grounds.
| For more information about red wiggler worms, click on the picture above. |